What in the world are “Fallas” and where on earth did they come from? This is the question we asked ourselves when Elena came home from school one day full of excitement. She couldn't wait to tell us that she had just invited her friends (Silvia & Empar) over to our house so they could design and create a “Falla”. Our first reaction was panic. We had no idea what to do. There weren't any instructions.
Once we settled down and let life take its course, we learned and experienced the following.
Fallas date back to the 18th Century when they were just one of the many activities leading up to the St. Joseph Day (San José) celebration on March 19 each year. Carpenters used torches to light their work space during the winter. When the torches were no longer needed in the spring, they were burned. Over time, clothing was placed over the torches to create a person-like figure and a bonfire took place on March 19.
The difference between fallas in the days of old and fallas now is the amount of time and money involved. Today, these person-like figures (Satirical Fallas Figures) have grown in size and complexity. Approximately 700 beautifully made and highly decorated satirical fallas are created each year and they are displayed in the street of every neighborhood in the city (2008 winner is pictured below).
Some of the fallas take a year to build and some cost over a million dollars to make.Fallas Fiesta attract over 2,000,000 visitors each year for a week-long celebration. It was 2,000,003 this year because Mimi, Gabriel, and Dominique joined us : ).
The literature around town tells everyone that the Fallas Fiesta is March 15 – March 19. However, the city-wide free-for-all fireworks set off by everyone who can light one begins March 1. I'm not referring to the sparklers and snakes that we lit as kids with our parents holding our hands but of firecrackers, M-80's, bottle-rockets, etc. that can be purchased by anyone at the local kiosk.
Everyday at 2 pm from March 1 until March 19, mascletás (day-time fireworks) are unleashed by one of the many local Pirotecnia Empresas (Firework Manufacturers). Different fireworks companies display their mascletás each day and thanks to our friend Julia we had a birds-eye view from her second floor balcony office (view left and right respectively). 
Valencia's mascletás are the loudest fireworks we have ever heard. They are so loud that they recommend opening your mouth to protect your eardrums. They are also so powerful that they may reach your inner-core – just ask Ann.
Elected representatives called Falleras (females) and Falleros (males) sing as the bands play popular Fallas music on the balcony and at 2 pm one of these representatives says “Pirotecnics, begin the mascletá”.
So, Fallas refers to the fiesta and to the gigantic monuments created for the fiesta. Everyone gets into the spirit of the fiesta. Neighborhood groups called Casals come together to design and create their falla. The falla artists compete for who can make the best fallas (in various categories). Kids learn the art of falla making in primary school and some go on to specialize in falla-art after high school.
Elena and her friends did successfully build their falla without our help.
Maria and her friend (and neighbor), Micaela worked together to make their falla.
Bronson made one with his mother. Bronson also wore a special falla outfit and scarf to school on the 19th called a bluzon.
The kids fallas along with all the other ones made by the students were part of a special falla celebration on their playground on March 19 prior to the city-wide fiesta later on at night. Balloons were popped to mimic the mascletás, the fallas were displayed as the kids marched around the playground and then they were burned. Try that one back home on school property!!!
Falleras and Falleros who are elaborately dressed in traditional hand-made outfits attend the parades, social events, and neighborhood gatherings all over town for the month of March. They are also the ones who elect the “best” falla monument each year.
We don't know what criteria is used to choose the winner but we do know that the falla monuments are satirical. They poke fun at or criticize a local, national, or international issue or person (all in the name of fun – no offense intended).
We also learned that with the exception of one small piece of a falla called a Ninot (pictured above), all fallas are burned on March 19th ... just like in the olden days.
As we walked around the city, we sensed an incredibly strong neighborhood togetherness. Wherever a falla was placed, there was a large white tent. This tent became the gathering place each night for the neighborhood during Fallas fiesta week. Everyone danced, sang, ate, and drank (in moderation) until the wee hours of the morning. The children, too, were there playing and having a good time.
Also during Fallas there are free concerts, buñuelos (doughnut-like pastries), thick hot chocolate, bullfights, marching bands, street-light contests,
mascletás (day-time fireworks), castillos (night-time fireworks), ninot displays (small fallas), fire parade
and the amazing Ofrenda. The Ofrenda is 2-day procession of 100,000 Fallaras, Falleros and their families through the streets all carrying flowers to the Cathedral for the Blessed Virgin in the Plaza de Virgen. The Virgen Mary stands 3-stories tall and these carnations (150,000) are placed within her wooden structure that makes up her colorful robe. In addition to this offering, the plaza is filled with beautifully arranged baskets and carts of all types of flowers. The fragrance was wonderful. An awesome tribute to the Mother of our Lord.
Fallas ends with the Cremá ... the night when the ~700 fallas are burned ... the night the city is on fire!
Fallas finally end for us at 2:30 am and we know that when we wake up the planning has already begun for Fallas 2009. Peeked your interest? Do you want to join us next year?????
1 comment:
Thanks for finally writing, Matthew! I laughed when you said something about lighting a bunch of fallas in the parking lot at school back in Evanston. I would be a whole different animal, that's for sure. I hope this comment makes it to you.
It sounded like a really cool experience. I hope your eardrums recovered!
Hi to everyone.
Diane dos Santos
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